This is one part of the servicing I’ve been putting off for a while. It just looked a little complicated to me and when you start playing about with fuel lines and things it worries a relative newbie with the spanners. Anyway, it had to be done and I was determined to do it myself, so here’s the write-up with some pictures.
As usual with the Pajero there are several theories on how often the fuel filter should be replaced. These include: Every 12 months, every 40000 miles, only when you think it might be causing a problem. At this point for me I don’t when the fuel filter was last changed (if ever) so I need to do it now for peace of mind. Then I can decide how often to do it in the future at a later point.
The first thing you have to do when performing a Pajero fuel filter change is to find the bloody thing! Here’s a photo of where the fuel filter is located on my 2.8 before I remove anything:

As will become obvious in this write-up you need much more access than is available at this point. You at least have to take off the intercooler (big silver/black thing to left) and those who have two batteries as I do often talk about removing the battery nearest to the filter as well. I managed just fine with only removing the intercooler. If you don’t know how to do this, have a look here first: Removing the Pajero Intercooler
Once the intercooler is out of the way we can see a much better view of the fuel filter which is arrowed below.

Right, now we can see the thing we need to remove the 2 fuel pipes. These are pretty obvious to see, coming off the front of the fuel filter unit. In theory you can do this with a screwdriver but I found it easier with a socket. Once removed there will be a little diesel leakage from the pipes but not much when I did mine. Note: you might wish to label these pipes before you remove them so you know which goes where when refitting.
Now it gets fiddly. Have a look down the back of the fuel filter housing and you should see the 2 bolts that hold it all in place. A socket extension was called for here – remove the 2 bolts.
Pull the whole fuel filter unit away from the bulkhead carefully and you’ll see that it is attached to 2 electrical clips. Undo these and try not to get diesel into them as I’m reliably informed this can damage the seals inside. You should now be able to take the whole fuel filter unit away from the vehicle, watching out for the diesel spilling out.
Ideally you have a vice available at this point. Otherwise you’ll have to improvise. Keep the unit upright and place the plastic water sensor (right at the bottom) very gently in the grips of the vice – just enough to get a hold of it (see photo below). Twist the filter and housing anti-clockwise to loosen, but not remove the plastic water sensor.

Now open up the jaws of the vice and grip it tightly around the body of the fuel filter itself (not the top housing). Twist the top housing anti-clockwise to remove the fuel filter. Drain any diesel from the fuel filter now. Then unscrew the plastic water sensor all the way out so it’s removed.
Here’s a photo of the whole thing taken apart. Left to right: New Mitsubishi fuel filter, old fuel filter, fuel filter housing. Bottom: Water sensor. Also notice on the water sensor the arrowed o-ring. In the box of the Mitsubishi fuel filter that I bought there was a new o-ring to go here which I obviously replaced. Not sure if this is the case on an after market fuel filter?

Let’s put it all back together!
Put the new o-ring onto the water sensor and then screw this into the new fuel filter. I couldn’t find out how tight this is supposed to be really, so I did it as tight as I could with my fingers and then gave it a final nip in the vice.
Now open up the vice and hold the fuel filter itself in place and screw on the filter housing. Again there’s no real test of how tight, it’s a guess really.
Right, now we’re ready to go back to the truck with it. Hold the unit roughly where it’s going to sit and put back the two cable clips you removed before taking it out. Then put back the 2 bolts at the back and tighten them up.
Now we need to put the fuel pipes back onto the front of the housing. Mine had these old clip things that I tried tightening but after a certain point they just seemed to spin. I really wasn’t confident about them so I replaced them with some small jubilee clips. My local motor factors had them labelled up specifically as fuel line clips.
At this point we’re almost done, but the fuel filter needs ‘bleeding’ to pull through the diesel and and fill the unit with fuel, therefore removing any air. The manual I followed showed a fuel filter housing with a different pump and air plug arrangement to mine, so I can only describe how mine looks and works. Yours might be different, but the principle’s the same.
I’ve shown a close up of the top of my filter housing below to show the relevant parts. Unscrew the white disc on the left which is the pump. Now undo the bleed screw (a few turns) which is the big nut in the centre. Work the pump until until fuel without bubbles comes out of the bleed screw. Now tighten the bleed screw and pump again until resistance is felt. Now tighten up the pumping disc.

Have a final check to make sure everything you took off is back in place securely, then put the intercooler back on. Now fire her up and off you go.
All in all a job that I needn’t have been worried about at all that could be done from start to finish in about half an hour with a little experience.
I’d love feedback on this post. What do you think about what I’ve written? Any tips on how to do it better/more efficiently. Anything you think I’m doing wrong? Please let me know in the comments box below.
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November 28th, 2009 at 8:21 am
Hi Lee
If you’re sure it’s a fuel problem and you’ve had the main fuel filter changed, have you also done the filter that’s near the fuel tank? Have a look in the comments above where someone describes how to do this.
Good luck.
August 10th, 2010 at 11:00 pm
Hi Tim are there anymore fuel filters beside the one in the tank and the main one you mention one near the tank i to am losing power at 2500 revs it just cuts out and then powers up again I have changed the main filter and going to do the one in the tank tomorrow any guidance as to any other filters would be helpful
August 11th, 2010 at 6:50 am
No John, just those two. Good luck.
February 5th, 2011 at 4:17 pm
Hi Tim
My 2.8 1994 diesel pajero cut out on me and I had to be recovered. I have been told it was a fuel problem, I have drained the diesel out and put new diesel in and changed the fuel filter, still no joy with starting it, I have bled it but there is no diesel coming through, any ideas as to what it might be, the rac man reckons the stop solenoid could need replacing, but i am having real trouble in getting one. do you have to buy the whole fuel pump with it on.
Tim
July 17th, 2011 at 1:11 pm
Hi tim my fuel filter has fuel in but wont let me bleed, is there a seal on the pump what can be changed
December 2nd, 2009 at 10:53 pm
Tim
How do I replace the pump seals or rubber seals in the fuel lift pump and where would I get them from please ?
(I can remove the pump and mechanism and it has 3 or 4 rubber seals inside, one is push and one is a pull, they resemble the rubbers in a break wheel cylinder on drum brakes.) Would appreciate any info you can give me. Thanx
December 2nd, 2009 at 11:30 pm
I have just bought a Mitsubishi pajero 2.5TD 1993 model. I have driven it for a short period and it started switching off itself especially when I stop at traffic lights and put it in neutral. I also oberved that it was losing power when I change into gear four and the mechanic told me to buy the fuel housing unit which has a primer pump. when I look at this unit it has not got any provision for any electrical connection. The fuel filter together with the pump that are said to be defective are exactly same as the pictures you have shown.My question is what happens to the electrical connections that you mentioned that they should have contact with fuel because the housing unit with a primer pump has no eletric areas to connect electric cables?
December 11th, 2009 at 11:06 am
probably sounds like a silly question but why did you take the whole filter and priming pump assembly off when you dont need to because doing so creates air locks in fuel lines that can be averted by just unscrewing the filter from the priming pump whilst it still in the vehicle because i havent had any problems doing this and ive changed the filter about 4 times on my 2.5td pajero i know you said your new to being on the spanners but the best tip that i always go by is dont over complicate simple tasks
December 11th, 2009 at 11:15 am
Totally agree with you Allan and I’ve been told that before! Trouble is, when I tried to remove the filter only I couldn’t get enough force on it to unscrew it in the position it’s in. I’ve tried to do it that way every time I’ve done a new filter, but can never manage it, so I just end up taking the whole thing off.
December 19th, 2009 at 4:34 pm
The filter & water sensor can easily be removed & the intercooler & filter housing left in situ, having removed the fuel lines & bottom elec connector if it has one, get yourself an oil filter strap wrench (looks like a nylon belt with a 3/8 drive ‘buckle’ on it) put it round the filter & use a ratchet with a 12″ extension on it & it will simply unscrew, simply swap water sensor to new filter & reverse proceedure to fit it back on, you should manage the bleed pump ok.
December 30th, 2009 at 4:16 pm
I have a problem with my 2.8 the fuel stop solinoid on the pump lost a chip of rubber from the corner of the seal and the car continued to run when turned off at the key to stop it i would have to loosen 3 injector pipes then it lost power dramaticaly i found the stop solinoid and replaced it but still major power loss i found a filter of sorts in the solinoid valve above the stop one, and removed rubber traces from there but still no power is there another filter in the injector pump, and where is it, cheers craig.
December 30th, 2009 at 4:21 pm
Thanks for sharing that Craig – might help someone.
December 30th, 2009 at 9:52 pm
Hi tim you seem to know lots about these pajeros, i have not been able to find out on the net, about this injection pump, would you know where there is a likly area within the pump where the rubber bits could be caught up causing a fuel restriction, or if there is any internal diagrams of the injector pump layout on the net, many thanks craig.
January 7th, 2010 at 9:58 am
Hi Tim
Thanks for this very helpful manual. I haven’t ever done any repairs to cars o trucks but with this instructions and the credit crunch pushing I think it’s time to give it a go so this will be the first thing I’ve ever done. I’ll try to do it by next week and let you know how did it go.
January 7th, 2010 at 4:22 pm
tim your a star . i have my pajero 2 years and only changed the fuel filter once with your help . jeep kept cutting out , found black sludge in the filter , so i would say two years for a change i drive about 40k miles a year . you made everything so simple .
cheers
andy
January 10th, 2010 at 5:34 pm
I have been having some problems with my 2.8 paj recently it had about as much acceleration as a JCB digger. As a last resort to solve the problem I decided to change the fuel filter. No issues with the job but i noticed that the haynes manual had a different filter housing description to mine (mine was the same as your diagram). Until i found your site i was not aware as to what the white disc was on the side and therefore could not bleed the system correctly.
After reading your information I returned to my workshop bled it and my God what a difference. I would say you have saved me at least £15000 as I had decided to get rid of the paj for an X5.
Thanks a lot, your sight will be my first port of call now as the information was invaluable.
Gareth
January 11th, 2010 at 1:29 pm
Had my pajero about 18 months now no probs. Due to bad weather tried 4 wheel drive last week had light on dash saying wheel lock next to 4 wheel drive light. Car felt like wheels going in different directions couldn’t drive it. When put back in 2 wheel drive wheels stayed locked. Only returned to normal after much turning on and off. Never had problem before when used 4 wheel drive. Any ideas?
May 2nd, 2010 at 8:50 am
After using 4wd put select lever in 2h lights on dash will flash then reverse untill they go out this disengages 4wd as i was told when i first bought one 10 yrs ago
January 18th, 2010 at 10:05 pm
Tim
Thanks for the instructions. Easy to follow and I managed the job in about an hour. Would have taken alot longer without your help and saved me a few quid.
Thanks again for this brilliant guide.
Luke
January 19th, 2010 at 2:06 pm
Glad it helped Luke
January 20th, 2010 at 4:30 pm
as i read the instructions first i wondered why he was doing it in such a difficult way, the easiest way is to remove the second battery and use a filter wrench to remove filter (after removing water sensor plug )then with filter out remove water sensor from bottom of filter and the rest has been well described
February 20th, 2010 at 11:06 pm
thanks a mill, brilliant article , just after suffering for last two hours trying to bleed filter, delighted to find this information, well done and thanks again..
March 30th, 2010 at 11:56 am
Great post!!!
Just an FYI to anyone that is working on a 1992, the priming pump in on the to of the manifold. Just above where the filter screws in. just push down on the top and the jump will do its job
March 30th, 2010 at 11:59 am
Thanks Ken, it’s a good point. There are at least 2 different types of filter housing that I know about.
June 27th, 2010 at 4:18 am
changed fuel filter (after removing inter cooler) would have been out side the realms and comfort zone of this kiwi with out your “Maintainence for Dummies” the photos were the clincher!
My old ex Japan 2.4 Montero (Pajero) is more frisky now .Many thanks.
Dale
June 27th, 2010 at 7:06 am
Glad it helped Dale
July 1st, 2010 at 10:03 pm
Hi there, i just bought a v74 2000 model and the problem is that after driving at times it just cut off itself.Than it drags on when i start but starts after some time and works again.Please help.
July 22nd, 2010 at 7:21 am
I have a problem on How to replace the pump seals or rubber seals in the fuel lift pump because it leaks and produce bubbles from fuel pump to enjection pump and where would I get them from please the 3 pcs rubber seals? im from philippines
October 3rd, 2010 at 10:02 pm
Hi.I have a 2.8 k reg lwb pajero that i’ve had for 6months.it sailed through its mot a couple of months ago went out to go to work on friday morning and it wont start.tried jump start but no joy,its trying to fire but i think that there is no fuel getting to the engine.it happened once before the day after i bought it and parked it facing up my very steep drive.turned it around and pointed it downhill and it started fine and been fine since until now.any ideas would be greatly appreciated.
December 27th, 2010 at 6:05 pm
I have the same problem with mine, any suggestions what it could be, I was thinking something to do with the stop solenoid?
October 17th, 2010 at 5:07 pm
Maybe related problem? I have a 98 swb 2.8 gdi, at 60-65 mph it starts to jerk, ok when I am either side of the range, fuel filter ????.
Also when changing the filter are the seals included?
Also power steering fluid any recomendations? cheers Simon
November 2nd, 2010 at 7:55 am
I followed the original post and instructions and it was really clear and useful, many thanks
November 2nd, 2010 at 9:43 am
Thanks Simon, good to to know it helped.
November 10th, 2010 at 10:11 pm
can you tell me how hard it is to change the gaskits on the fuel pump on a 1992 2.5td please.
November 26th, 2010 at 11:44 am
Hello , great write up. Had pajero for over a year now, last winter had trouble starting , would start run for a few miles and then stop. Found its the commom problem of the seal on the fuel pump leaking. As for glow plugs mine eats them !!! I have just changed mine out for the winter. Seems Starts quicker than the wifes new MB now. Cracked cylinder heads are also common for the 2.8 pajero (just check ebay lots on sale thus lots of demand!) – To test for cracked head, with engine cold, start with rad cap off wait few mins if foam starts coming out then its gone. When i got the head off it looked like an injector was choked and spraying up at the head. causing over heating and thus failure. After new year will take the injectors out again and have tested.Pajero ones can be serviced thus far cheaper then a head change. Oh yes for fuel pump seal watch out for people that have fitted an electrical inline pump. As yes it will aid starting but the leak will now be fuel contaminating the engine oil. Not good.
Off to find out why my differential lock light keeps flashing – wish me luck!
Kel
As they say keep up with the maintenance of a pajero or things can get expensive!
November 26th, 2010 at 1:52 pm
Excellent advice, especially about how to find a cracked head.
Many thanks for your input – I’m sure it will help someone reading this.
January 24th, 2011 at 10:21 am
Hi berty, I have been having a similar problem but can’t understand the logic, before I spend any more money on this problem can you help me understand why my pagero only stalls once, the rest of the day it runs fine. And it always stalls within a mile of the house. A local mechanic also said it was a seal on the fuel pump. The mechanic before said it was the fuel filter and changed this but that did not resolve the problem.
January 24th, 2011 at 2:47 pm
Hi Duncan
Cutting out once and then being fine all day is a classic fuel pump seals being shot symptom, so I’d say your mechanic is right.
December 27th, 2010 at 6:14 pm
The other morning I went to start my shogun 2.8gls but got nothing. There is fuel getting to the injector pump but when I cracked the injectors there is nothing coming through a bit odd as it was running fine the day before if any 1 here could shed some light on it I’d be very appreciative
Thanks
Tom!
January 4th, 2011 at 11:55 am
Hi there
I have a 2.8 1993 Diesel Pajero.
My partner and i was driving along and it suddenly cut out. We stopped for 5 mins then it restarted; a few days later it did exactly the same thing but failed to start and we towed it home.
I was advised to change the fuel filter which in turn i did and bleed it but the engine will not turn over. We called the breakdown people out and they tolf me it was the lift pump in the fuel tank..i couldn’t find an eletrical pump but i found the 2 fuel pipes one with a filter on, i blew the airline down it (not sure if thats the right thing to do) but the fuel line was clear back to the main fuel filter.. we are completely stuck and not sure what else to do….as there is no fuel getting to the injectors..if you can help in anyway i would appreciate it…please email me..regards Trev
January 4th, 2011 at 12:09 pm
Hi Trevor
Have you checked for fuel leaks all through the fuel line system?
You could try here for lots of info on the fuel system: http://www.pocuk.com/forums/viewforum.php?f=1
January 4th, 2011 at 8:28 pm
Have you checked the fuel return line disconnect and pump the primer c if fuel comes out, if it does check your fuel stop solenoid is working!
February 5th, 2011 at 6:35 pm
hi tim how do i no if the solenoid is working, she it make a noise when ignition is turned on. thanks tim
February 6th, 2011 at 8:53 pm
i have a 93 2.8 lwb , loverly car, but every now and then if im driving it hard on the motorway in 2wd the at temp light glows up then if i ease my foot up it goes off, only happens now and then, any ideas ?
February 14th, 2011 at 12:21 am
hi tim had trouble with my balence belt so when puting back together decided to change the filters till i got to the fuel filter only seen the type whith the hand pump on the top on outher cars till i seen this one on my pag 2.5 and dident know wat to do with it looked in the manual and it shows the hand punp on top as this is not the case when you get to the pag i was a bit stuk but now you have explained it so esey it wont be a problem now dident want to remove filter as dident know how to get the fuel back in but now i do thaks a lot tim brill
February 14th, 2011 at 7:44 am
Glad you got it sorted Paul
February 27th, 2011 at 8:02 pm
my mate recently changed the cylinder head on his 1992 pajero 2.5 diesel and since then it will only fire and run badly as if running out out of fuel. I have checked the timing marks which are correct. By passed the EGR system. I did note that when pumping the fuel plunger on the filter fuel came out of the plunger as well as the bleed screw. Any ideas welcome.
March 24th, 2011 at 12:04 pm
CHECK THE FILTER IN THE INJECTION PUMP!
I look after a couple of MK1 2.5TD Pajeros for a gliding club. They both have the 4D56 diesel engines, and whilst searching for info on servicing, found this via the Mitsubishi Delica Owners Club UK site:
http://translate.google.com/translate?hl=en&sl=de&u=http://motorang.com/L300/L300_esp-sieb.htm
In case you can’t get the link, what they are saying is that there is a little stainless steel sieve filter under a bolt head just forward of the injection pump throttle spindle. They reckon it gest clogged with bits of the main fuel filter and on a high mileage vehicle can block completely. A rinse out in petrol or other solvent and a good blow should vlear it and this can dramatically improve performance.
If your diesel Pajero will idle but not pull, or keeps cutting out, I can definitely recommend giving the black rubber plunger on top of the main fuel filter some pumps until resistance is felt.
April 16th, 2011 at 11:03 pm
hi tim its paul (pag 2.5 lwb 91) i said about the balance belts be for every thing is still fine on that score. i now have a new problem for you it was thir befor the belts and now is still is thir after the belts problem here goes it stared some time ago stometimes high reving when got warm now and again instead of runing at 750 rpm as it should it revs up to 1000 rpm as though the air con is on (but it isent)and stops thir when ticking over un till stoped and gos back 1000 when re stared when still warm it now does it every time i start it. so when stood at lights ect it revs high at 1000rpm and sounds like i am reving it high been looking around the injection pump at the point it revs up and nothing seems to move to make it rev up taken intercoler of to try and see more but still carnt see enthig moveing to cause it to rev up can you help sory dident know wat section to put this in so just added to the one from be for thaks paul
July 15th, 2011 at 2:53 am
I found your diesel filter changeout to be quite informitive.(Not knowing how to bleed the system)
Best Regards
Tanks Neal
November 19th, 2011 at 10:33 am
Hi, i have 95 pajero, 2.8ltr turbo diesal. Its been playing up, always in the morning. Idles rough, blows smoke, clears its throat it may stall with in a 6 min period, and runs fine the rest of the day. took it to mechanic, checkd fuel, looked crappy. he said water in tank. Askd me if i,d used a particular station to fuel up which i had, and he,d had about 4 cars usin same station with same probs, they had unleaded fuel, i have diesel.he recond the colour of my fuel looks like an addative had been used to get rid of water. Told me to run my tank as low as i could without running out, refuel with quality fuel. Ran good for a while but it had a new fuel filter too. Now its rough so after takin this info to an auto supply shop, they gave us a conditioning treatment that sorts water and algy out. I think itscrunning worse sine adding it.
Any ideas???? I,m thinkin of doing filters, drainin tank, new injectors.
Thanks for any help
November 19th, 2011 at 11:29 pm
2.8 pajero has a common problem with the fuel pump seal ,would start and then cut out , have a look at the pajero owners club web site
November 20th, 2011 at 6:57 pm
how many fuel filters are on a 95 2.8 lwb pajero
January 5th, 2012 at 5:09 pm
Hi I have a 1991 pajero 3.0v6 can anyone tell me where i could purchase replacement fuel pipe from the tank to the filter orif i can replace it with rubber pipes. Any help would be greatly appreciated Thanks Phil
January 15th, 2012 at 9:01 pm
What type of fuel filter does the 2.5L turbo diesel automatic take? MK 1 long wheel base?