Tony emailed me to share his experiences of Pajero ownership a while back. He’s been kind enough to let me publish it here.
Possibly the biggest problem us Pajero owners have at this time of year is cold starting, so it’s interesting to hear what Tony’s done to try and fix this.
Rather than edit, I’ll let Tony tell you all about his Pajero in his own words:
“Our youngest son Rob had a gardening business and we obtained a Brava twin cab which did the job very well, anyway, he found a job with the local agricultural society showground and no longer needed the capacity, a mate of his who managed a car supermarket site came home in a Paj 2.8 swb which was a bit flash compared to his Brava so he was sold!! Basically he had taken it in part ex and needed to get rid of it!
So, welcome to the world of automatics, climate control, adjustable suspension and overdrives etc. What a piece of kit and all for 2.5 grand.The original tool kit had never been used and everything was “as new”, of course we have since learned that many of these “grey” imports come into the UK like this over 10 years old and no rust! amazing! Meanwhile I had started to fancy this set of wheels despite the fact that it only has 3 doors and isn’t exactly the most fuel and space efficient thing around.
So, next the problems, as soon as the weather cooled down it became reluctant to start so we threw ourselves at the mercy of the local diesel specialist who tested the glow plugs and found that only one was working, a new set solved the problem, at about this time Rob found a job working for the M5 Motorway contractors working 05.00 to 13.00 or 13.00 to 21.00hrs which meant starting up at some unsocial hours, needless to say it was in summer last year so no problem - yet! When the cooler weather started it became difficult to start again so I did a few tests and it was obvious that the glow plugs were not working, the solenoid between the batteries was not kicking in so I made up a temporary fix which was a short length of jump lead with a couple of croc clips, just connect both terminals on the solenoid having downed the drivers window, walk round and instant start!! then disconnect the lead and off he goes without causing too much noise at 04.30 in the morning.
Now we are into increased fuel costs so Rob now needs to improve on 21mpg since his commute is 17 miles to the motorway services each way. The only alternative is for him to buy a more economical set of wheels. After much research he decided on a 2.2 Astra Sri which leaves him needing to dispose of the Paj. Needless to say Dad steps in and makes him a bid he can’t refuse. He reckons the Astra saves him £150 a month on fuel!
Now I have had the Paj for 6 months and I love it, Immediately the thing is reluctant to start so I decided to bite the bullet and buy a new solenoid, down to the local Mitsubishi dealer, he says sit down on one of the courtesy seats and I’ll tell you the price, £96, so I lie down until the feeling passes and, kind soul, he tells me how to repair the old solenoid. Take it apart gently, don’t pull on the leads and wrap a bit of emery tape round a small screwdriver to clean the copper contact bar. It worked! and now it was starting instantly again. After a few months starting got less reliable, same problem, so I talked to another auto electrician and diesel specialist, yes, he can get me a solenoid but they cost the earth so why not use a GR19 relay? I says what about the capacity? 100amp plus he says, are you sure I says then he says at £15 it’s worth a try and nobody has come back since I started suggesting it! Well, we got the relay, he charged me £12 cash, it has two large connections and two small spade terminals I connected it all up, one of the spade terminals to earth and now I have instant starting from cold. I honestly don’t know how long it’s going to last but at £12 it can’t be bad even if it doesn’t last indefinitely.”
Tony tells me these relays are available from any good auto electrical supplier. The one he uses is Droitwich Auto Electrics on 01905-778814. Can’t guarantee they will be able to do one for the cost shown above or post it, but might be worth a try if you can’t find one local.
Tony got back to me with an update on the cold starting after he’d been away on holiday:
“This morning it was covered in frost and started the instant the glow plug light went out, since I fitted the relay it has always started instantly, Rob my son, started it on Friday for the first time since it was parked up for a few weeks and said it started instantly. Last winter he owned it and had lots of starting issues caused by glow plugs not functioning.
It looks as though we have cracked the problem at a realistic price! however it remains to be seen how long the relay lasts.”
So I’ve asked Tony to keep us informed about his relay trick. Although it won’t fix everyone’s starting issues, it’s an interesting one to keep an eye on.
[Please note: as usual, any modifications shown on this site should be copied at your own risk. We cannot be held responsible for any problems arising from these ideas.]
Thanks again Tony!
The working Pajero!
If you’ve got problems starting a cold Pajero, you might also be interested in this post I did some time ago - Pajero Cold Starting
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December 10th, 2008 at 8:43 am
Where can you buy an GR36 relay and do they connect strait in.
December 10th, 2008 at 8:54 am
I’ve now updated the text above. It’s a GR19 relay that’s needed for this, not a GR36 as first written - available from any decent auto electrical supplier.
December 12th, 2008 at 8:26 pm
I had the same problem with my 1996 45,000 MILE swb 2.8 Pajero - Greinton Garage John Lewis Somerset, sorted it - fitted a button starter with relay, copper glow plug rail, removed the EGR system. Now starts first time everytime even after 3 days no go at 3 degrees of frost - I always get 29mpg plus
December 12th, 2008 at 10:11 pm
29mpg John? A lot of people reading this will be very jealous, me included! Thanks for your input.
December 13th, 2008 at 7:49 pm
Regard MPG I have found that turning the OD off when only on 40mph roads (Around the doors) seems to save some fuel, and only switch on the OD when I am on the motorway.
December 14th, 2008 at 10:42 am
Yeah, I’ve heard of that before Steven. To be honest I’m far too lazy!
December 31st, 2008 at 4:33 pm
Hi, thanks for the great blog. I am having exactly the same problem with a 93 SWB TD. I’ve changed the plugs, cleaned the busbar and still get jerking in at first start with really low idle, about 400rpm.
One question I had is how do you fit the GR19 relay into the existing setup? I didn’t understand that part of the blog on fitting it..
I am not too mechanically minded, would it be better for a mechanic to do?
December 31st, 2008 at 5:14 pm
Hi Amir
I’ll have a word with Tony and see if he can give us more details as it’s not something I’ve done myself.
December 31st, 2008 at 7:34 pm
Tim/Amir
Re fitting the GR19 relay, the picture tells the story. The original solenoid was fitted to two captive bolts between the batteries, the GR19 has a bracket with a single hole, this was fitted to the bolt nearest the engine. then I attached the two large terminals, the size is the same as the old solenoid so you shouldn’t need to alter them. Then I attached the existing small terminal wire to the one small terminal, again you still use the same terminal as the size is the same. Now look at the picture and you will see the short earth wire I had to make up using a push on terminal (red) and a ring terminal, this I attached to the other solenoid bracket bolt behind the plastic cable holder, I am not a skilled mechanic but I have a reasonable understanding of vehicles, it took me about half an hour but a good mechanic would probably do it in half that time! Also I used a proper pair of electrical terminal making pliers.
I understand that the way the system works is that with a cold engine when you turn the key the heater light illuminates for about 5 secs then you start it up when the light goes out, I beleive that another relay holds the current to the heater plugs for about another 10 secs to avoid uneven running/misfire for the initial start up. If you read my original story it was a sod to start when the weather got cold now it fires instantly from cold, today it was -3c and no problem!
Good luck with it!
January 1st, 2009 at 11:59 pm
Hi Tim/ Tony a very Happy New Year to you both and thanks for your advice. I’ll probably get auto electrician to take a look on installing it as I don’t want to destroy something else.
One final question though please: Can using this relay cause any damage to any part of the system? Relays, battery etc? in your opinions.
Thanks again.
Amir
January 4th, 2009 at 3:11 pm
hi tim . steven here ..my problem is the exact same.not starting. mine is a 2.5 td pajero . would i need 2 buy 2 gr19 relays as it looks as tho i hav 2 selinoids and is that a bigger problem 2 fit than u had with urs .. i await ur reply. urgently
January 4th, 2009 at 6:21 pm
I have problem startin my 2.8 pejeo in the mornings ,once it start it smoke abit (black and white) but then it clears and run fine can u give me a idea wot it could be cheers andy
January 6th, 2009 at 1:19 am
Hi Guys like the site, ref your starting problems i had the same probs, after replacing both relays and actualy repairing 2 as well i found out it was my ECU that burnt out, due to cost i am going to run a bypass from the relay to a push to make switch as per the instructions from cableguy at the following link good photos with it http://www.pocuk.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=76976
March 13th, 2009 at 12:53 am
1994 paj 2.8d starts 1st time but when travelled bout 1/4m cuts out and difficulty starting,when started again cuts out for 2nd time then starts again,then when reached norm temp is ok for rest of day,anyone know problem please?
March 13th, 2009 at 7:57 am
Hi jj
What your describing are the typical symptoms of having knackered fuel pump seals. It’s a common problem with the Pajero. You’ll need a decent mechanic to sort that one out really.
March 28th, 2009 at 8:55 pm
I am having the problem where my pajero keeps cutting out ramdomly. (apparent fuel pump seals). However, if I bypass my fuel filter the car runs fine, I have put a new filter on but as soon as i connect it, the car cuts out again. Anybody have any ideas?
April 2nd, 2009 at 8:11 am
Hi,
If you’re worried about 100A not being a high enough rating, it’s entirely possible that you could wire up two of these relays in parallel for increased longevity.
Also, if you’re worried about damaging sensitive electronics with this setup, simply add a power diode between the coil terminals with it’s annode connected to the ground side. This will suppress any high voltage generated as the field collapses. However, I’d guess this isn’t much of a concern as the original system also drives a coil.
August 18th, 2009 at 6:55 am
I’ve got the same problems, but when I pump the manual fuel pump I can get it started, however I have to repeat this for about 5 min. before it runs normal. One machanic said it is the pump above the filter while another said it must be a fuel pump in the fuel tank which isn’t working. I have now no idea what it is.
Jack
August 20th, 2009 at 10:57 pm
Geree and Jack Willigers
It sounds as if your seals are gone on your diesel pump - most noticeable on a 2.8 which will always cut out at the same place after initial starting in the morning - but does happen to every engine using the bosch-type fuel pump.
What is happening is the seals being worn are allowing the fuel to drain back to the tank overnight then the pump needs to draw a load of air up before it gets fuel to deliver to the engine.
A pump rebuild should cure it but you’ll be looking at £250+ if you remove and replace the pump
December 3rd, 2009 at 5:07 pm
cold start problems 2.8 paj
i had the starting problems where the paj would run lumpy at start then eventually it cut out a short distance down the road.
the fuel pump i removed and got the fuel pump seal on the shaft only fitted for the second time it was fitted two year a by the previous owner two year ago but the previous owner had the paj standing on driveway, apparently if the engine stands for long periods this can cause the seals to fail? so a diesel specialist told me however the engine now has not cut out but runs lumpy again at start up on a cold morning. i have not yet checked the glow plugs as i was told the engine just would not start if they wer at fault it has always started right away. i suspect a leaking fuel line above the tank (accessed from in the boot) as from what i could view did not look in the best condition. i think i will try bypassing the fuel filter also just to see how it starts for a couple of days.
i wondered wht is the 2nd cable for alongside the throttle as it is like the engine needs choke on cold start up and the cable has a bit of slack in it any suggestions?
January 12th, 2010 at 9:31 pm
Pajero 2.8 oil pressure sensor removal.
Forget the 24mm sensor as it is easier to takle the 17mm bolt underneath it and then seperate them in a vice once it’s removed from the engine.
February 7th, 2010 at 5:28 pm
Hi,
running s J reg SWB 2.5TD with 2 batteries and 2 solenoids. Think 1 of the solenoids is knackered. When warm the it sometimes (getting more frequent) won’t start. Turn the key, clicking noise and nothing. Have temp solved the problem running a jump lead from the + on the battery direct to starter. How do I know which solenoid is knackered and is it okay to replace both with 1 relay or are 2 relays better? Your wisdom is greatly appreciated.